Last updated: April 26, 2026
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A horse’s hooves are the foundation of everything. A horse with poor feet won’t win races, won’t trail ride comfortably, and won’t stay sound. Horse hoof care is not complicated, but it requires consistency — daily inspection, scheduled farrier work, and understanding what you’re looking at when something changes.
Horse hoof care — the three things that matter most:
- Pick feet daily and feel for heat. Most serious problems give early warning signs you’ll catch with a daily routine before they become expensive vet bills.
- Trim or shoe on schedule — not when it looks long. Waiting until feet are overgrown creates imbalance that leads to cracks, flares, and lameness. Most horses need a farrier every 5–8 weeks.
- Wet footing is often worse than dry. Thrush, abscesses, and soft soles thrive in moisture. Drainage and dry standing areas matter more than most owners realize.
This guide is based on hands-on barn and track experience aligned with veterinary standards from the American Association of Equine Practitioners. It draws on 30 years of owning and racing Thoroughbreds at Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs in Louisiana, alongside farriers and veterinarians who work on racehorses daily. It is for education and prevention. Lameness, heat in the hoof, an increased digital pulse, or sudden pain always require an in-person evaluation by a qualified farrier or veterinarian. Miles Henry, Louisiana Owner License #67012.
- Horse owners building a foundational hoof care routine
- New owners and OTTB (off-track Thoroughbred) owners
- Trail and performance riders evaluating shoeing decisions
- Anyone whose horse has recurring hoof problems they want to understand
Table of Contents
Horse Hoof Anatomy: The Foundation of Soundness
Before you can properly care for your horse’s hooves, you need to understand what you’re looking at. The hoof isn’t just a hard shell — it’s a complex structure with bones, soft tissue, blood vessels, and specialized growth zones all working together to support your horse’s entire body weight.
External Hoof Structures
The hoof wall grows downward from the coronary band — the junction where hair meets hoof — at roughly a quarter-inch per month. This growth rate determines how often your farrier needs to trim or reset shoes. On our racehorses, horses in consistent work and good nutrition tend to have slightly faster, healthier hoof growth than those standing idle in stalls.
The sole protects the bottom of the foot and should be slightly concave, creating a natural arch for shock absorption. A flat sole is often a warning sign of laminitis or other structural problems. The frog — that V-shaped structure in the center of the sole — acts as both shock absorber and circulatory pump. Every time the hoof hits the ground, the frog compresses and helps push blood back up the leg. This is why turnout and movement are critical for hoof health.
Internal Hoof Structures
Inside the hoof capsule, the coffin bone (also called P3 or the third phalanx) is the primary skeletal structure, suspended inside the hoof wall by hundreds of tiny interlocking structures called laminae. These laminae are absolutely critical — when they fail, you get laminitis, one of the most devastating hoof conditions. The digital cushion sits above the frog and provides additional shock absorption; horses on varied terrain develop better digital cushions than horses kept exclusively on soft footing. The navicular bone and associated bursa and ligaments are common sources of lameness, particularly in horses doing repetitive work on hard surfaces.
| Structure | Primary Function | Common Problems |
|---|---|---|
| Hoof Wall | Weight-bearing, protection | Cracks, chips, flares |
| Sole | Protection from below | Bruising, abscesses, thinning |
| Frog | Shock absorption, circulation | Thrush, atrophy |
| Laminae | Suspension of coffin bone | Laminitis, founder |
| Coronary Band | Hoof wall growth | Injuries, scarring |
| Digital Cushion | Shock absorption | Underdevelopment from limited movement |
| Navicular Bone | Heel mechanism, shock distribution | Navicular syndrome, bursal inflammation |
Daily Hoof Cleaning and Inspection
Every horse we own gets their feet picked every single day. Not because it’s enjoyable at 5 a.m. — though I’ve grown to appreciate the quiet routine — but because daily hoof inspection has caught problems before they became expensive vet bills more times than I can count.
Proper Technique
Start on the near (left) side. Run your hand down the leg from shoulder or hip to fetlock, then squeeze gently just above the hoof while saying your cue word. Use a hoof pick with a brush attachment, starting at the heel and working toward the toe along the natural direction of the frog. Clean out all debris from the grooves alongside the frog (the sulci). The brush portion removes caked mud and allows you to actually see what you’re inspecting. For step-by-step technique, see our guide on how to clean your horse’s hoof safely.
What to Look for During Daily Inspection
- Thrush: Black, foul-smelling discharge in the frog grooves. A bacterial infection that thrives in wet conditions — caught early it’s easily treated; ignored, it can cause serious lameness.
- Puncture wounds: Any foreign object in the sole or frog. Don’t pull it yourself — call your vet first. They may need to see exactly where it entered before removal.
- Cracks and chips: Small surface chips are normal, but cracks running upward from the ground or downward from the coronary band need farrier attention. Quarter cracks can worsen rapidly under stress.
- Loose shoes: Check that all clinches are flush and the shoe isn’t shifting. A loose shoe can twist and cause serious damage in minutes if the horse is worked.
- Bruising: Reddish or dark discoloration on the sole from stepping on rocks. Typically grows out but should be monitored for association with an abscess.
- Heat and digital pulse: Any increase in heat or a pounding pulse at the fetlock is a warning sign — possible laminitis onset or abscess. Act immediately.
How to Decide What Your Horse Actually Needs
Before you change farriers, pull shoes, add supplements, or try barefoot, work through this framework. It prevents expensive decisions based on trends or what worked for someone else’s completely different horse.
1. Surface — What Does Your Horse Live and Work On?
- Soft pasture only: Likely can go barefoot if hoof quality is decent
- Mixed (pasture + arena): Evaluate sole thickness and wear patterns
- Gravel roads or rocky trails: Most horses need protection — shoes or boots
- Asphalt or concrete work: Shoes almost always necessary
2. Workload — What Are You Asking This Horse to Do?
- Pasture only: Barefoot with regular trims usually sufficient
- Light trail riding (1–2×/week): Many horses stay sound barefoot
- Regular training (4–5×/week): Evaluate wear vs. growth rate carefully
- Competition or performance work: Usually requires shoes for consistency
- Race training: Always shod — in my experience, non-negotiable
3. Trend — Are Feet Getting Better, Worse, or Stable?
- Improving: Current program is working — don’t change it
- Stable: Fine to maintain or make minor adjustments
- Declining: Something is wrong — evaluate nutrition, trimming, and environment
- Chronic problems: Need professional assessment from vet and farrier together
4. Growth vs. Wear — Is the Hoof Growing Faster Than It Wears?
- Growth exceeds wear: Feet are getting longer, walls flaring. Regular trimming keeps them balanced. May be fine barefoot.
- Wear exceeds growth: Soles wearing thin, walls chipping back faster than they grow. This horse needs protection.
- Balanced: Rare, but ideal for barefoot if hoof quality is good.
5. History — What Problems Has This Horse Had Before?
- No hoof issues ever: Don’t mess with success
- Recurring abscesses: Look for environmental causes (wet footing) or thin soles
- Laminitis history: Requires specialized care — discuss thoroughly with vet and farrier
- Navicular changes: Often benefits from therapeutic shoeing
Case Study: OTTB With Recurring Abscesses
A few years back, we had a 4-year-old off-track Thoroughbred gelding who developed abscesses every 6–8 weeks. Running through the framework: wet pasture with poor drainage, light workload, trend getting worse, soles staying soft from wet conditions, no abscess history on the track. The problem was obvious once I looked at it systematically — environment. Moved him to a dry lot, shortened trim cycle from 8 weeks to 5 weeks, kept shoes on for sole protection. Abscess frequency dropped to zero over the next eight months. The answer wasn’t a new farrier or a supplement — it was fixing the environmental cause I’d been ignoring.
Common Hoof Care Mistakes
1. Over-Oiling Dry Feet
Hoof oil and dressing are heavily marketed, and more is assumed to be better. It isn’t. The hoof wall is designed to maintain specific moisture content — too much external oil prevents the hoof from regulating that moisture and can soften the wall structure. Focus on internal moisture through proper hydration and nutrition (biotin, methionine). If you live in an extremely arid climate, light application a few times a week is fine. Daily soaking in oil does more harm than good.
2. Waiting Too Long Between Farrier Visits
Hooves don’t just grow longer — they grow unbalanced. An extra two weeks might save $50 but cost six months of lameness from the quarter crack that develops from an imbalanced hoof capsule. Stick to your farrier schedule — for most horses, every 5–6 weeks. Book the next appointment before the current one ends.
3. Treating Thrush Without Fixing Wet Footing
You can treat thrush daily with every product on the market, but if your horse stands in wet bedding, mud, or poorly drained pasture, you’re fighting a losing battle. Treatment kills the current infection; environment determines if it comes back. Fix the wet areas first, then treat. It’ll actually stay gone.
4. Ignoring Diet When Feet Are Brittle
Owners spend hundreds on supplements before looking at the basic diet. Hoof quality starts with nutrition — adequate protein (methionine, lysine), biotin, zinc, and copper. If your horse’s base diet is low-quality hay and cheap sweet feed, no supplement builds great feet. Get your hay tested. Add a hoof supplement only after the base diet is correct. Diet changes take 4–6 months to show up in hoof quality — hooves grow slowly.
5. Blaming the Farrier for Genetic Hoof Shape
Some horses are born with upright, narrow feet. Others have flat soles or thin walls. A skilled farrier can optimize what genetics provided, but can’t rebuild hoof structure that isn’t there. Some horses will always need shoes, pads, or more frequent attention because of how they’re built. Accept that and work with it.
6. Pushing Through a Failed Barefoot Transition
Give barefoot a fair trial — 3–4 months minimum — but be honest about your horse’s comfort level. If they’re still consistently footsore on anything but soft ground after that, put the shoes back on. There’s no trophy for keeping a horse barefoot if they’re not sound.
7. Focusing Only on the Feet and Ignoring the Whole Horse
Hoof problems are sometimes just hoof problems. But often they’re symptoms of something else — metabolic issues, conformational stress, or systemic health problems. If hoof issues are chronic despite good farrier work, step back and evaluate the whole horse. Check insulin sensitivity, body condition, weight distribution. Sometimes the hoof problem disappears when you address the underlying systemic issue.
Shoeing vs. Barefoot: Making the Right Choice
This is one of the most debated topics in horse care. The right answer depends entirely on the individual horse, their workload, conformation, and the surfaces they’ll be traveling on. Both extremes are wrong — I’ve seen horses thrive barefoot and others go chronically lame without shoes.
When Shoes Are Necessary
- Work on abrasive surfaces: Horses ridden on gravel roads, rocky trails, or hard-packed ground often wear hooves faster than they grow. Shoes protect the wall from excessive wear.
- Conformational correction: Some horses have conformational flaws creating uneven forces on hooves and legs. Specialized shoeing distributes forces more evenly.
- Medical conditions: Navicular syndrome, laminitis, and certain other conditions often benefit from therapeutic shoeing.
- Thin or weak hoof walls: Some horses simply don’t grow strong walls regardless of nutrition. These chip and crack badly if kept barefoot in regular work.
- Racing: Our racehorses are all shod — Thoroughbreds training and racing on dirt need the protection and traction that aluminum racing plates provide. No debate.
When Barefoot Works
I keep several retired horses and young stock barefoot. For horses in light work or primarily on pasture, barefoot can be the better choice. The hoof naturally flexes and expands with each step, promoting circulation, and barefoot horses develop thick calloused soles that provide excellent natural protection. For barefoot to work you need good natural hoof quality, appropriate work level, regular professional trimming every 5–6 weeks, and time to build sole thickness if transitioning from shod.
| Factor | Domestic Horses | Wild Horses |
|---|---|---|
| Daily Movement | Limited turnout, concentrated work periods | Constant movement — 15–20 miles daily |
| Wear Rate | Minimal; requires regular trimming | Natural abrasion — self-trimming |
| Sole Thickness | Variable; often thinner in stall-kept horses | Thick, calloused, rock-hard soles |
| Genetic Selection | Bred for performance regardless of hoof quality | Only strong-footed horses survived to reproduce |
| Need for Shoes | Commonly needed for protection and performance | Never needed — maintained by environment |
This explains why wild horses don’t need shoes — their lifestyle, genetics, and environment are completely different from domestic horses. Wild horses have been naturally selected for superior hoof genetics over thousands of years, while domestic breeding prioritizes performance traits regardless of hoof quality.
Common Hoof Ailments: Recognition and Treatment
Hoof Abscesses
Abscesses are the leading cause of sudden, severe lameness — a horse can be perfectly sound one day and unable to bear weight the next. Abscesses form when bacteria enter the hoof — often through tiny cracks or following a bruise — creating pressure inside the rigid hoof capsule until it drains. Farriers and veterinarians typically confirm an abscess by hoof testers, a bounding digital pulse, and localized heat. Treatment: soak in warm Epsom salt water 2–3 times daily and apply poultice. Most resolve within a few days once draining begins. Prevention: keep hooves picked clean, maintain appropriate moisture, avoid prolonged standing in mud.
Thrush
Thrush is a bacterial infection of the frog characterized by black, foul-smelling discharge and deteriorated tissue. Extremely common in wet conditions, easily preventable, and treatable if caught early. Treatment: aggressive daily cleaning and application of thrush-specific treatments consistently until cleared. Prevention: dry stalls, daily hoof picking, proper hoof balance so the frog makes ground contact.
Laminitis and Founder
Laminitis is inflammation of the laminae — when severe or chronic, called founder. When the laminae fail, the coffin bone can rotate or sink, causing devastating permanent damage. According to clinical guidelines from the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP), endocrinopathic laminitis associated with insulin dysregulation is now recognized as the most common form — meaning metabolically sensitive horses on rich pasture are at higher risk than previously understood. Signs veterinarians look for include a reluctant stiff gait, increased digital pulse, heat in the hooves, and the classic “sawhorse” stance where the horse rocks back onto their heels to relieve pressure on the toes.
White Line Disease
A fungal or bacterial infection that separates the hoof wall from underlying structures along the white line, creating hollow areas and causing chunks of wall to break away. More common in wet climates or horses standing in damp conditions. Treatment requires your farrier to remove all affected hoof wall, keep the area clean and dry, and apply topical anti-fungal treatments. The wall must regrow from the coronary band over several months. For comprehensive information on hoof pain, see our detailed guide on hoof pain in horses: causes, treatment, and care.
When to Call the Vet
Some hoof issues you can manage with your farrier’s help. Others require immediate veterinary intervention. When in doubt, call — veterinarians would much rather you call unnecessarily than wait too long on something serious.
Working With Farriers and Veterinarians
Over three decades working with racehorses at Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs, I’ve worked with more than 15 different farriers. The best relationships have been with professionals who communicate well, show up consistently, and understand that we’re all on the same team: keeping the horse sound.
Finding and Keeping a Good Farrier
A competent farrier is worth their weight in gold. Formal training and certification from a recognized farrier school is a plus, along with solid references and a good working relationship with local veterinarians. Red flags: always late, doesn’t return calls, gets defensive when you ask questions about their work. The American Farrier’s Association recommends scheduling appointments every 5–8 weeks depending on hoof growth rate. Don’t wait until your horse is due for a reset to call — have a standing schedule and book the next appointment before the current one ends.
Good farriers appreciate clients who prepare horses properly (clean hooves, horse caught and ready), hold the horse respectfully or cross-tie them, and provide a safe level working area. They appreciate when you ask questions about what they’re seeing. A farrier who doesn’t want to explain what they’re doing and why isn’t the right professional for you.
The Farrier-Veterinarian Partnership
For complex hoof problems, your farrier and veterinarian should work together. Neither professional can solve complicated problems alone — vets understand the medical and diagnostic side; farriers understand biomechanics and practical implementation. If your horse has chronic or serious hoof issues, ask your vet and farrier to consult with each other, either by phone or ideally in person while working on your horse.
Breed-Specific Hoof Considerations
Thoroughbreds
Thoroughbreds are notoriously known for less-than-ideal feet, and there’s truth to that reputation. Decades of breeding for speed rather than soundness have created a breed with generally smaller, more upright hooves relative to body size. Common issues include thin soles that bruise easily, upright narrow hoof structure, thin walls prone to cracking, higher incidence of quarter cracks, and contracted heels from shoeing and limited turnout. Our retired Thoroughbreds living on pasture develop significantly better feet than they had during their racing careers. See our article on whether Thoroughbreds have bad feet for more detail.
Quarter Horses
Quarter Horses typically have round, well-shaped hooves with thick walls and good sole depth. Generally less prone to hoof problems than many breeds, though working cow horses can develop issues from repeated hard stops and turns. Quarter Horses with significant Thoroughbred bloodlines may inherit some of that breed’s hoof weaknesses.
Draft Breeds
Draft horses have enormous hooves producing enormous forces. White line disease is more common in draft breeds, possibly due to moisture retained in heavily feathered lower legs. Proper farrier work on drafts requires specialized equipment and skills — not all farriers are equipped to handle them safely.
Arabians and Morgans
Arabians are famous for strong, dense hoof horn and naturally well-shaped feet — often excellent barefoot candidates if kept in appropriate work. Morgans share similar hoof quality. These breeds were developed for endurance and soundness, and it shows in their foot structure.
Year-Round Hoof Maintenance Schedule
Daily Tasks
- Pick and inspect all four hooves
- Check for heat, cracks, foreign objects, thrush
- Monitor for lameness or unusual movement
- Ensure dry, clean footing in stalls and high-traffic areas
Weekly Tasks
- Check shoe tightness if shod
- Apply hoof conditioner in dry weather or hoof hardener in wet conditions
- Clean and inspect stall and paddock areas for drainage issues
Every 5–8 Weeks
- Professional farrier appointment for trimming or shoeing
- Discuss any concerns about hoof shape, shoe wear patterns, or lameness
- Take photos from multiple angles — useful for tracking changes over time
| Season | Primary Focus | Core Actions | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Moisture + Metabolic | Restrict lush grazing for sensitive horses; monitor digital pulse daily as grass grows | Apply sole hardener once a week to prevent stone bruises in soft muddy footing |
| Summer | Concussion + Dryness | Avoid hard-ground work during peak heat; use hoof moisturizer if walls become brittle | Fly boots reduce constant stomping that chips walls and loosens nails |
| Fall | Metabolic + Preparation | Maintain strict trim cycle; assess winter shoeing decisions (studs? pull shoes?) | Frosty grass is highest in sugar — wait for sun before turnout on metabolically sensitive horses |
| Winter | Traction + Ice | Don’t skip trims; use pads if snow-balling is a problem; monitor for frozen-ground bruising | Apply a thin layer of Vaseline to the sole to prevent ice-balls from forming |
Download: Get the printable Daily Hoof Care Routine Checklist (PDF) for barn use.
FAQs About Horse Hoof Care
How often should horse hooves be trimmed?
Most horses need farrier attention every 5–8 weeks depending on how fast their hooves grow, how much they wear, and whether they’re shod or barefoot. Shod horses in regular work typically need resets every 5–6 weeks. Barefoot horses on soft surfaces may go 7–8 weeks. Never wait until feet look overgrown — hooves grow unevenly and develop imbalance that causes problems well before they look long.
What are the signs of a hoof abscess in horses?
The most common sign is sudden, severe lameness — sometimes so severe the horse won’t bear weight on the leg at all. You may also feel increased heat in the hoof wall, notice a bounding digital pulse at the fetlock, and observe swelling above the coronary band as the abscess tracks upward. Abscesses are the most common cause of dramatic sudden lameness that turns out not to be a fracture or joint injury. Most resolve within a few days of soaking and poulticing once they begin to drain, though some take longer depending on depth and location.
What causes thrush in horse hooves?
Thrush is caused by anaerobic bacteria that thrive in wet, dirty conditions — packed mud and manure in the frog grooves creates the ideal environment. Horses kept in wet stalls, muddy paddocks, or standing water are most susceptible. Poor hoof balance that prevents the frog from making proper ground contact also contributes, as an under-stimulated frog atrophies and becomes more vulnerable to infection. Daily hoof picking and dry footing prevent most cases.
How do I know if my horse needs shoes or can go barefoot?
The decision comes down to five factors: the surfaces the horse lives and works on, workload intensity, whether hoof growth rate keeps pace with wear rate, current hoof quality trend, and the horse’s history of hoof problems. Horses doing light work on soft surfaces with good natural hoof quality can often go barefoot successfully. Horses working on abrasive surfaces, carrying conformational challenges, or with a history of thin soles or white line issues generally need shoes. Give a barefoot transition 3–4 months — if the horse is still footsore on anything but soft ground, reshod them.
What is laminitis and how do I prevent it?
Laminitis is inflammation of the laminae — the tissue that connects the coffin bone to the hoof wall inside the hoof capsule. When severe or chronic, it’s called founder, and the coffin bone can rotate or sink, causing permanent damage. The most common form is endocrinopathic laminitis associated with insulin dysregulation — metabolically sensitive horses and ponies on lush pasture are most at risk. Prevention includes weight management, controlled grazing (especially in spring when grass sugar is highest), appropriate diet, and managing any underlying metabolic conditions. Laminitis requires prompt veterinary attention — contact your vet the same day you notice signs.
How do you treat a horse hoof crack?
Small surface chips and minor horizontal cracks often grow out with regular farrier trimming and good nutrition. Vertical cracks that run upward from the ground surface or downward from the coronary band — especially quarter cracks — need professional farrier attention. Treatment typically involves stabilizing the crack with patches, screws, or glue, correcting any underlying hoof imbalance that’s creating uneven stress, and protecting the area while new growth comes in. Nutrition matters too — biotin, methionine, and zinc support healthy hoof wall growth.
How long does it take for a horse hoof to grow out?
The hoof wall grows approximately a quarter inch per month from the coronary band. Full hoof replacement — from coronary band to ground — takes roughly 9–12 months for most horses. This is why nutrition and environmental changes take months to show up in hoof quality, and why cracks at the coronary band can take close to a year to grow fully to the ground. Younger horses and horses in regular work with good nutrition tend to have slightly faster growth rates.
What nutrients are most important for healthy horse hooves?
Biotin is the best-researched hoof supplement and has consistent support for improving hoof wall quality and growth rate — dosages of 20mg daily are typically used for horses with poor hoof quality. Methionine and lysine (amino acids) are essential for keratin production, the structural protein of the hoof wall. Zinc and copper support hoof wall integrity and pigmentation. These work best when the base diet is already providing adequate protein and energy — supplementing on top of a poor diet produces limited results.
Do Thoroughbreds have worse hooves than other breeds?
Thoroughbreds as a breed do tend to have more hoof challenges than many other breeds — thinner soles, more upright narrow hooves, and thinner walls are common. This is partly the result of generations of selective breeding for speed traits without prioritizing hoof soundness. However, individual variation is significant, and many Thoroughbreds have excellent feet. Off-track Thoroughbreds often improve significantly once retired to pasture with good nutrition and more movement. See our detailed article on Thoroughbred hoof quality for more.
- Pick feet every single day. The daily routine is your best early warning system — it catches problems before they become expensive vet bills.
- Schedule farrier visits on a calendar. Every 5–8 weeks, on a standing schedule. Don’t wait until feet look long — hooves grow unbalanced long before they look overgrown.
- Wet footing causes most preventable hoof problems. Thrush, recurring abscesses, and soft soles are almost always environment problems. Fix the drainage first.
- Shoeing vs. barefoot is an individual decision. Base it on the horse’s workload, hoof quality, and surfaces — not ideology. Give barefoot 3–4 months to evaluate honestly.
- Hoof quality is built from the inside out. Biotin, methionine, zinc, and copper matter. Supplements work — but only after the base diet is correct.
- Laminitis is always an emergency. Call your vet immediately at the first signs — heat, bounding pulse, reluctance to move. Every hour matters.
- Your farrier and veterinarian work best together. For complex or recurring problems, get them consulting with each other. Neither professional can solve complicated problems alone.
Technical and Clinical References
- American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) — clinical standards and laminitis guidelines
- Merck Veterinary Manual — hoof anatomy and disease reference
- University of Minnesota Extension — hoof care and maintenance
- University of Florida IFAS — nutrition and environment research
- UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine — conditioning guidelines
- American Farrier’s Association — farrier certification and standards
- Equine Veterinary Journal — peer-reviewed research on therapeutic shoeing and hoof biomechanics
Complete Hoof Care Guide Collection
Hoof Nutrition: Building Stronger Feet From the Inside Out
Biotin, methionine, zinc, and copper — what each does and how to build a diet that supports hoof quality.
Horse Hoof Abscess: Treatment and Prevention Guide
Everything about diagnosing, treating, and preventing the most common cause of sudden severe lameness.
Thrush in Horses: Causes, Treatment, and Prevention
Why thrush keeps coming back and how to eliminate the environmental cause, not just the symptoms.
Preventing Laminitis: Risk Factors and Early Signs
Metabolic triggers, seasonal risks, and the management changes that reduce laminitis recurrence.
Barefoot vs. Shod: The Complete Transition Guide
How to evaluate whether your horse is a candidate for barefoot and what a successful transition looks like.
Do Thoroughbreds Have Bad Feet?
The breed-specific hoof challenges of Thoroughbreds and how 30 years of track experience approaches them.
About Miles Henry
Racehorse Owner & Author | 30+ Years in Thoroughbred Racing
Miles Henry (legal name: William Bradley) is a professional horseman based in Folsom, Louisiana. He holds Louisiana Racing License #67012 and has spent over three decades managing Thoroughbreds at premier tracks including Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs.
Expertise & Hands-On Experience: Beyond the track, Miles has decades of experience in specialized equine care, covering everything from hoof health and nutrition to training protocols for Quarter Horses, Friesians, and Paints. Every guide on Horse Racing Sense is rooted in this “boots-on-the-ground” perspective.
30 of their last 90 starts
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