Last updated: April 28, 2026
Most horse owners don’t have a hay problem—they have a feeding strategy problem. And it’s behind more cases of colic, ulcers, and laminitis than most people realize. The wrong hay, fed too infrequently or without testing, quietly creates issues that show up weeks or months later.
After 30 years working with Thoroughbreds in Louisiana, I’ve found the fix is usually straightforward: choose the right hay type, test it when it matters, and feed it in a way that keeps the horse’s gut working the way it was designed to. Get those three things right and you prevent most avoidable feeding problems before they start.
Feeding horses hay means providing 1.5–2% of body weight in forage daily, choosing the right type for the horse’s needs, and feeding consistently to support digestion and prevent colic. This guide is written primarily for horse owners feeding stalled or dry-lot horses, especially in humid southern climates where hay quality and storage require extra attention.
Feeding horses hay — the short version:
- How much: 1.5–2% of body weight daily in forage — about 15–20 lbs for a 1,000-lb horse
- Best hay types: Grass hay (timothy, orchard, bermuda) for most horses; alfalfa for performance horses and broodmares needing extra protein and calories
- For metabolic horses: Test all hay — target NSC under 10% for horses with Cushing’s, EMS, or laminitis history. Spring bermuda in Louisiana can spike well above that.
- Feed little and often: Free-choice when practical, or at least three meals a day — long forage gaps raise the risk of ulcers and colic
- Storage rule: Dry, elevated, ventilated, below 15% moisture — Louisiana humidity ruins hay fast
This guide is based on 30+ years of hands-on experience feeding and managing Thoroughbreds at Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs in Louisiana. I am not a licensed veterinarian. Always consult your veterinarian or equine nutritionist before making major diet changes, especially for horses with PPID, insulin resistance, or laminitis. Miles Henry, Louisiana Owner License #67012.
Table of Contents
Why Hay Is the Foundation of Equine Nutrition
Horses are hindgut fermenters — most digestion happens in the large intestine, not the stomach. That design requires near-constant fibrous forage. Without it, the hindgut is disrupted, the stomach acidifies without a buffer, and the risk of ulcers, colic, and behavioral problems rises. Studies show that over 90% of stalled horses develop some degree of gastric ulcers when forage access is consistently restricted (AAEP) — making continuous hay access one of the most important management decisions you make. Hay provides fiber for hindgut fermentation, bulk that keeps the gut moving, abrasive chewing that maintains dental health, and essential vitamins and minerals depending on type and quality. Poor hay — moldy, dusty, over-mature, or nutritionally weak — eventually shows up in body condition, digestion, or behavior. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, horses should consume 1.5–2% of body weight in forage daily — a standard supported across multiple extension programs as the baseline for equine digestive health.
Types of Hay for Horses
Choose hay based on the horse’s actual need: energy, protein, weight control, or metabolic safety. No single type is right for every horse.
| Hay Type | Protein | Fiber | NSC (Approx.) | Best For | Watch Out For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Timothy | 8–10% | High | 8–12% | Most horses, easy keepers, metabolic horses | Lower calorie — may not sustain performance horses alone |
| Orchard Grass | 10–12% | High | 10–14% | Performance horses, broodmares, moderate work | Higher NSC than timothy — test for metabolic horses |
| Bermudagrass | 8–12% | High | 8–15% | Louisiana staple; good for most horses | Spring growth can spike NSC — always test for metabolic horses |
| Alfalfa | 15–20% | Moderate | 10–15% | Performance horses, broodmares, underweight horses | Too rich for easy keepers — can cause loose manure if overfed |
| Mixed Hay | Varies | Varies | Varies | Balancing nutrition between grass and legume | Nutritional content is unpredictable — testing is essential |
Horses generally prefer softer hay with a higher leaf-to-stem ratio — they’re naturally selecting for more digestible, nutrient-dense material. Research from Iowa State University confirms that horses will preferentially eat leafier, less mature hay when given a choice. Earlier-cut hay is more palatable and more nutrient-dense. Hay harvested at late maturity is stemmy, lower in protein and digestibility, and horses will waste more of it. For specific selection guidance, see our comparisons of timothy grass vs alfalfa hay and the best hay for horses by workload and type.
How to Choose Quality Hay
Visual assessment is your first filter, not your only one. Good hay should be green or light green throughout, have a fresh, slightly sweet smell, feel pliable rather than brittle, and show a high leaf-to-stem ratio. Reject any bale that smells musty, shows white or black mold spots, produces a dust cloud when shaken, contains significant weed content, or feels unusually warm — heat in stored hay indicates active fermentation and fire risk.
Beyond visual quality, hay’s nutritional value varies significantly based on the plant type, maturity at cutting, curing conditions, and storage history. A bale that looks clean and green can still have NSC levels that are dangerous for a metabolic horse, or protein levels inadequate for a broodmare. The only way to know is to test — which is covered in the next section.
Hay Testing: Why It Matters and How to Do It
Hay testing is one of the most useful tools in equine nutrition. A $20–40 forage analysis tells you the protein, fiber, mineral, and NSC content of your hay — the numbers that help you judge suitability, supplementation needs, and Ca:P balance. Without it, you’re making feeding decisions without the numbers that matter.
For horses with Cushing’s disease or EMS, testing should be the first step in building a safe diet. Our guide on hay protein content for performance horses covers how to read the key values on an analysis report. Spring bermudagrass in Louisiana regularly tests above 15% NSC during rapid growth periods. That same hay fed to a PPID horse without testing is a laminitis risk regardless of what the feed label says.
- Sample correctly: Use a hay probe to collect 10–12 cores from different bales within the same lot. One bale doesn’t represent the lot.
- Send to a certified lab: Equi-Analytical (affiliated with Cornell University) and Dairy One are the two most widely used equine forage labs. Results typically return within a week.
- Read the key numbers: Protein (is it meeting your horse’s needs?), NSC (sugar + starch combined — target under 10% for metabolic horses), fiber (NDF/ADF for digestibility), and Ca:P ratio (should be between 1:1 and 2:1).
Feeding Horses Hay Correctly
How you approach feeding horses hay matters almost as much as hay type. A horse with good hay fed incorrectly — large infrequent meals, on sandy ground, or in a competitive group — will still have digestive problems.
Frequency and Access
Free-choice hay access is ideal because it mimics grazing and keeps the hindgut continuously supplied. Where free choice isn’t practical, feed at minimum three times daily. A horse that goes more than four to six hours without forage is at elevated ulcer and impaction risk. Slow-feed hay nets are one of the most practical tools for horses that eat too quickly — they extend consumption time, reduce respiratory exposure to dust, and keep hay cleaner than ground feeding. See our guide on hay feeding equipment for horses for feeder comparisons.
Portion Sizing
A good starting point is 1.5–2% of body weight in hay daily. For a 1,100-lb horse, that’s 16.5–22 lbs — roughly 3–4 flakes of a typical small square bale per feeding. Weigh your hay periodically rather than estimating by flake count. Adjust based on body condition: a horse at BCS 6 or above needs less; a hard keeper at BCS 4 needs more, or a shift to a more calorie-dense hay type. Flake size varies significantly between cuttings and sources, making estimation by volume unreliable.
Feeding Location and Method
On clean, non-sandy ground, feeding hay on the ground is fine and natural. On sandy or gravelly soil, always use a hay net or feeder — horses inevitably ingest sand alongside hay, and repeated sand ingestion accumulates in the colon and causes sand colic, one of the more serious and expensive digestive emergencies. For outside group feeding, distribute multiple hay piles at least 15 feet apart and place one more pile than there are horses in the group — this breaks the dominant horse’s ability to control access and ensures lower-ranking horses get adequate forage.
Small Square vs. Round Bales
Both formats work well; the right choice depends on your operation size and storage capacity.
Small square bales, typically 40–75 lbs, are the practical choice for small operations and individual horse owners. They’re easy to handle without machinery, stackable in standard barn storage, and allow precise portion control per horse. The tradeoffs are cost per pound (significantly higher than round bales) and higher susceptibility to moisture damage if storage is imperfect — a wet corner in a square bale stack can ruin a significant number of bales.
Round bales reduce cost per pound considerably and work well for multi-horse pasture situations where hay is fed continuously. The risks are mold at the bale core if it gets wet, waste from horses walking on exposed hay, and difficulty controlling individual intake in a group. Horses pastured with round bales also tend to overeat when first introduced, which matters for easy keepers. Cover large round bales that aren’t under shelter — a tarp over an uncovered bale significantly extends its usable life in humid climates. For current hay pricing by bale type, see our hay cost guide.
Hay Storage and Handling
Proper storage determines whether hay keeps its value or loses it. Hay baled at less than 15% moisture and stored correctly retains its nutritional value for months. Hay baled wet or stored in a humid environment develops mold quickly, loses nutrients through continued fermentation, and generates heat that creates fire risk in enclosed barns. In Louisiana, summer humidity can spoil improperly stored hay within weeks.
- Store in a dry, ventilated location — barn, shed, or covered hay storage. Direct exposure to rain and condensation is the primary cause of hay spoilage.
- Keep hay off the ground on pallets or wooden rails — ground contact wicks moisture and encourages mold from the bottom up, often invisibly until the bale is opened.
- Stack to allow airflow between rows — tight stacking traps heat and moisture. Leave a few inches between stacked rows.
- Store away from fertilizer, pesticides, and fuel — hay absorbs odors and contaminants readily.
- Inspect regularly for heat, unusual smell, or visible mold, especially during the first two weeks after delivery.
- Use older hay first — rotate stock so hay doesn’t sit long enough to degrade nutritionally, even in good storage conditions.
Common Hay Feeding Mistakes
Most hay-related health problems are preventable. These are the mistakes I see most often — and the ones that cause the most avoidable vet calls.
| Mistake | What Happens | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Reducing hay to manage weight | Extended forage gaps cause ulcers, cribbing, and digestive upset — the horse doesn’t lose weight, it loses health | Switch to a lower-calorie hay type (timothy vs alfalfa) rather than cutting quantity |
| Not testing hay for metabolic horses | A hay that looks clean and green can run 15%+ NSC — a laminitis trigger for insulin-dysregulated horses | Test every new lot; aim under 10% NSC total diet for confirmed insulin dysregulation |
| Feeding directly on sandy ground | Horses ingest sand with hay; accumulates in the colon over weeks and causes sand colic | Use hay nets or a rubber mat feeder on sandy or gravelly surfaces |
| Storing hay on bare ground | Moisture wicks up from the bottom — the bottom rows spoil invisibly before the exterior shows any signs | Pallets or wooden rails under every stack; inspect the bottom bales on each new delivery |
| Feeding the same ration regardless of workload | A horse in active training needs more calories; a horse on rest gets excess starch that contributes to tying up | Adjust hay quantity and type to match actual workload — especially grain-fed horses on rest days |
| Buying hay without knowing the source | Nutritional content varies enormously by cutting, growing conditions, and harvest timing — even from the same farm | Build a relationship with one or two reliable hay sources; test each new lot rather than assuming consistency |
FAQs About Feeding Horses Hay
Is it OK to feed horses just hay?
Yes — for most horses at rest or light work, quality hay alone provides all necessary fiber, vitamins, and minerals. Horses in heavy training, lactating mares, and senior horses with dental issues or metabolic conditions may need additional nutrition, but hay is the foundation for all of them. The key is choosing hay that matches the horse’s specific needs and testing it to confirm the nutritional profile.
How many flakes of hay should I feed my horse a day?
A horse should consume 1.5–2% of its body weight in hay daily — about 15–20 lbs for a 1,000-lb horse. That typically works out to 3–4 flakes per feeding with a standard small square bale, but flake weight varies significantly by cutting and source. Weigh your hay periodically rather than estimating by flake count. See our detailed guide on how much hay a horse needs per day for more on calculating rations by body weight.
How can I determine the nutritional content of my hay?
Laboratory testing is the only reliable method. Use a hay probe to collect 10–12 core samples from different bales in the same lot, then send to a certified forage lab like Equi-Analytical or Dairy One. The analysis returns protein, fiber (NDF/ADF), NSC (sugar + starch), and mineral content. This is especially important for metabolic horses — visual assessment cannot tell you whether hay is within a safe NSC range.
How should I store hay to maintain its quality?
Store in a dry, well-ventilated area — barn, shed, or covered storage — with hay elevated off the ground on pallets to prevent moisture wicking from below. Stack with space between rows for airflow. Keep below 15% moisture; hay baled wet continues fermenting and generates heat. In high-humidity climates like Louisiana, inspect new deliveries for heat and unusual smell within the first two weeks.
Can horses eat hay that has been rained on?
Hay that gets rained on loses soluble nutrients through leaching and is at high risk for mold development as it dries. Small amounts of surface wetting on round bales are typically tolerable if the hay dries quickly. Any hay with visible mold, musty smell, or soft discolored core should not be fed. If wet hay is thoroughly dried and shows no mold, it can be used but will have reduced nutritional value.
What are the benefits of using slow-feed hay nets?
Slow-feed hay nets extend eating time — a horse that finishes a hay net in 20 minutes instead of 5 spends more time chewing, produces more saliva to buffer stomach acid, and mimics natural grazing behavior more closely. They also reduce hay waste, keep hay off the ground, and reduce the amount of dust and mold spores the horse inhales while eating. For stalled horses without pasture access, slow feeders are one of the most cost-effective management tools available.
What NSC level should I target for a horse with Cushing’s or EMS?
Aim for under 10% NSC in the total diet — feed and hay combined — for horses with confirmed insulin dysregulation or a laminitis history. For PPID horses without active insulin dysregulation, 10–15% NSC is often manageable with veterinary guidance. Spring pasture and spring-cut grass hay frequently exceeds these thresholds, which is why testing every new lot is essential for metabolic horses. Soaking hay for 30–60 minutes can reduce NSC content by 20–30% as a short-term measure.
What is the difference between grass hay and alfalfa for horses?
Grass hay (timothy, orchard, bermuda) is higher in fiber and lower in protein and calcium than alfalfa — it suits most horses at maintenance or light work and is the safer default for easy keepers and metabolic horses. Alfalfa runs 15–20% protein and is significantly higher in calcium, making it valuable for performance horses, broodmares, growing young horses, and underweight horses that need concentrated calories and protein. The higher calcium in alfalfa can cause Ca:P imbalance if fed as the sole forage without balancing the phosphorus intake.
How do I feed hay to horses outside in a group?
Distribute hay in more piles than there are horses — if you have four horses, put out five piles spaced at least 15 feet apart. This prevents the dominant horse from controlling all access points. On sandy or gravelly ground, use hay nets or feeders to keep hay elevated and prevent sand ingestion, which accumulates in the colon over time and causes impaction colic. On clean grass, ground feeding is fine and allows a natural head-down grazing posture.
- Hay is non-negotiable. A horse’s hindgut needs continuous forage. Reducing hay to manage weight without switching hay types leads to ulcers, colic, and behavioral problems — not a thinner horse.
- 1.5–2% of body weight daily is the baseline. Adjust based on body condition score, not by guessing flake counts.
- Test all hay for metabolic horses. NSC under 10% for confirmed insulin dysregulation; 10–15% with veterinary guidance for PPID horses. Spring bermudagrass can easily exceed both thresholds.
- Grass hay for most horses; alfalfa for those with higher demands. Easy keepers and metabolic horses do better on grass hay. Performance horses and broodmares often need alfalfa or a mixed blend.
- Feed little and often. Three times daily minimum for stalled horses; free-choice or slow feeders preferred. Long forage gaps raise ulcer risk more than almost any other management factor.
Related feeding guides: do horses need grain | feeding horses with Cushing’s disease | best hay for horses by type | hay types and nutritional comparison
About Miles Henry
Racehorse Owner & Author | 30+ Years in Thoroughbred Racing
Miles Henry (legal name: William Bradley) is a professional horseman based in Folsom, Louisiana. He holds Louisiana Racing License #67012 and has spent over three decades managing Thoroughbreds at premier tracks including Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs.
Expertise & Hands-On Experience: Beyond the track, Miles has decades of experience in specialized equine care, covering everything from hoof health and nutrition to training protocols for Quarter Horses, Friesians, and Paints. Every guide on Horse Racing Sense is rooted in this “boots-on-the-ground” perspective.
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