Last updated: July 30, 2026
Most horse owners don’t have a hay problem — they have a feeding strategy problem. The right hay, fed the right way, keeps the gut working the way it should and helps prevent avoidable feeding problems before they start.
Feeding horses hay — the short version:
- How much: 1.5–2% of body weight daily in forage — about 15–20 lbs for a 1,000-lb horse.
- Best hay types: Grass hay like timothy, orchard, or bermuda for most horses; alfalfa for performance horses and broodmares that need extra protein and calories.
- For metabolic horses: Test all hay. Aim for NSC under 10% for horses with Cushing’s, EMS, or a laminitis history.
- Feed little and often: Free-choice when practical, or at least three meals a day.
- Storage rule: Keep hay dry, elevated, ventilated, and below 15% moisture.
After a lifetime around horses, I’ve found the fix is simple: choose the right hay, test it when it matters, and feed it consistently. Get those three things right, and you prevent most avoidable feeding problems before they start.
Table of Contents
Feeding Horses Hay Correctly
How you feed hay matters almost as much as the hay itself. Good hay fed the wrong way — in large infrequent meals, on sandy ground, or in a group where one horse controls the pile — can still cause digestive problems.
Frequency and Access
Free-choice hay is ideal because it matches the way horses are built to eat and keeps forage moving through the hindgut. If that isn’t practical, feed at least three times a day. Once a horse goes four to six hours without forage, the risk of ulcers and impaction starts to climb. Slow-feed hay nets are one of the best tools for horses that eat too fast because they slow consumption, reduce dust exposure, and keep hay cleaner than feeding on the ground. See our guide on hay feeding equipment for horses for feeder comparisons.
Portion Sizing
A good starting point is 1.5–2% of body weight in hay daily. For a 1,100-lb horse, that works out to about 16.5–22 lb, or roughly 3–4 flakes of a typical small square bale per feeding. Weigh your hay from time to time instead of guessing by flake count. Adjust based on body condition: a horse at BCS 6 or above usually needs less, while a hard keeper at BCS 4 may need more or a more calorie-dense hay type. Flake size varies too much between cuttings and sources to trust volume alone.
Feeding Location and Method
On clean, non-sandy ground, feeding hay on the ground is fine and natural. On sandy or gravelly soil, use a hay net or feeder, because horses will pick up sand with the hay and that sand builds up in the colon over time. That is how sand colic starts, and it is one of the more expensive digestive problems to deal with. When feeding a group outside, put out more piles than there are horses and space them at least 15 feet apart so the dominant horse cannot guard every pile.
Types of Hay for Horses
The best hay depends on what the horse actually needs — more energy, more protein, less weight, or a safer option for metabolic issues. No single hay is right for every horse, and that’s where a lot of feeding mistakes start.
| Hay Type | Protein | Fiber | NSC (Approx.) | Best For | Watch Out For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Timothy | 8–10% | High | 8–12% | Most horses, easy keepers, metabolic horses | Lower calorie — may not hold weight on harder-working horses |
| Orchard Grass | 10–12% | High | 10–14% | Performance horses, broodmares, moderate work | Can run higher in NSC than timothy — test before feeding metabolic horses |
| Bermudagrass | 8–12% | High | 8–15% | Louisiana staple; good for most horses | Spring growth can push NSC higher — always test for metabolic horses |
| Alfalfa | 15–20% | Moderate | 10–15% | Performance horses, broodmares, underweight horses | Can be too rich for easy keepers and may loosen manure if overfed |
| Mixed Hay | Varies | Varies | Varies | Useful when blending grass and legume to balance a ration | Nutritional content is unpredictable — testing matters even more |
Horses usually go for softer hay with more leaf and less stem because that’s the part they can use best. Iowa State University Extension notes that horses prefer leafier, less mature hay when they have a choice. Earlier-cut hay is usually more palatable and more nutrient-dense, while hay cut too late gets stemmy, less digestible, and more likely to end up wasted. For more on choosing the right forage for your horse, see our guides on timothy grass vs. alfalfa hay and the best hay for horses by workload and type.
Common Hay Feeding Mistakes
Most hay-related health problems are preventable. These are the mistakes I see most often — and the ones that cause the most avoidable vet calls.
| Mistake | What Happens | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Reducing hay to manage weight | Extended forage gaps cause ulcers, cribbing, and digestive upset — the horse doesn’t lose weight, it loses health | Switch to a lower-calorie hay type (timothy vs alfalfa) rather than cutting quantity |
| Not testing hay for metabolic horses | A hay that looks clean and green can run 15%+ NSC — a laminitis trigger for insulin-dysregulated horses | Test every new lot; aim under 10% NSC total diet for confirmed insulin dysregulation |
| Feeding directly on sandy ground | Horses ingest sand with hay; accumulates in the colon over weeks and causes sand colic | Use hay nets or a rubber mat feeder on sandy or gravelly surfaces |
| Storing hay on bare ground | Moisture wicks up from the bottom — the bottom rows spoil invisibly before the exterior shows any signs | Pallets or wooden rails under every stack; inspect the bottom bales on each new delivery |
| Feeding the same ration regardless of workload | A horse in active training needs more calories; a horse on rest gets excess starch that contributes to tying up | Adjust hay quantity and type to match actual workload — especially grain-fed horses on rest days |
| Buying hay without knowing the source | Nutritional content varies enormously by cutting, growing conditions, and harvest timing — even from the same farm | Build a relationship with one or two reliable hay sources; test each new lot rather than assuming consistency |
How to Choose Quality Hay
Visual assessment is your first filter, not your only one. Good hay should be green or light green, smell fresh and slightly sweet, feel pliable rather than brittle, and have a high leaf-to-stem ratio. Reject any bale that smells musty, shows white or black mold, throws off a dust cloud when shaken, contains a lot of weeds, or feels unusually warm. Heat in stored hay can signal active fermentation and a fire risk.
Beyond what you can see, hay quality also depends on the plant type, cutting maturity, curing conditions, and how it was stored. A bale can look clean and green and still test too high in NSC for a metabolic horse or come up short on protein for a broodmare. The only way to know for sure is to test it, and that is the next step.
Hay Testing: Why It Matters and How to Do It
Hay testing is one of the best tools you have in equine feeding. A $20–40 forage analysis tells you the protein, fiber, mineral, and NSC levels in your hay, which helps you decide whether it fits the horse, whether you need to supplement, and whether the Ca:P balance is where it should be. Without a test, you’re guessing.
For horses with Cushing’s disease or EMS, testing should come before everything else. Our guide on hay protein content for performance horses shows how to read the main values on a forage report. In Louisiana, spring bermudagrass can test well above 15% NSC when growth is moving fast, and that same hay can be a real problem for a PPID horse if you don’t test it first.
- Sample correctly: Use a hay probe to take 10–12 cores from different bales in the same lot. One bale doesn’t tell you what the whole load looks like.
- Send to a certified lab: Equi-Analytical and Dairy One are two of the most commonly used equine forage labs. Results usually come back within about a week.
- Read the key numbers: Protein, NSC, fiber, and Ca:P ratio are the values that matter most. For metabolic horses, aim for NSC under 10% and keep the Ca:P ratio between 1:1 and 2:1.
Why Hay Is the Foundation of Equine Nutrition
Horses are hindgut fermenters, which means most digestion happens in the large intestine, not the stomach. That system was built to run on near-constant fibrous forage, so when forage gets restricted the gut gets out of balance and the risk of ulcers, colic, and other problems goes up fast. Hay does more than fill the stomach — it keeps the hindgut working, gives the horse something to chew, helps support dental wear, and supplies fiber, vitamins, and minerals depending on the type and quality.
The rule of thumb is simple: feed about 1.5% to 2% of body weight in forage each day, and don’t let poor hay — moldy, dusty, over-mature, or weak hay — become the foundation of the ration.
FAQs About Feeding Horses Hay
Is it OK to feed horses just hay?
Yes — for most horses at rest or in light work, good-quality hay can supply the fiber, vitamins, and minerals they need. Horses in heavy training, lactating mares, seniors with dental problems, and horses with metabolic issues may need extra nutrition, but hay is still the foundation of the diet. The main thing is to match the hay to the horse and test it when the horse’s needs make that important.
How many flakes of hay should I feed my horse a day?
A horse should eat about 1.5–2% of its body weight in hay each day — roughly 15–20 lbs for a 1,000-lb horse. That often works out to 3–4 flakes per feeding with a typical small square bale, but flake weight changes a lot from one bale to the next. Weigh your hay now and then instead of trusting flake count. See our detailed guide on how much hay a horse needs per day for more on calculating rations by body weight.
How can I determine the nutritional content of my hay?
Laboratory testing is the only reliable way to know what is really in your hay. Use a hay probe to collect 10–12 core samples from different bales in the same lot, then send them to a certified forage lab like Equi-Analytical or Dairy One. The report will show protein, fiber (NDF/ADF), NSC (sugar + starch), and mineral content. That matters most for metabolic horses, because looks alone will not tell you whether the hay is safe.
How should I store hay to maintain its quality?
Store hay in a dry, well-ventilated area such as a barn, shed, or covered storage space, and keep it off the ground on pallets so moisture cannot wick up from below. Leave space between stacks for airflow. Hay should be baled below 15% moisture, because wet hay keeps fermenting and can heat up. In humid climates like Louisiana, check new hay during the first couple of weeks for heat, odor, or mold.
Can horses eat hay that has been rained on?
Hay that gets rained on loses soluble nutrients and is at a much higher risk of molding as it dries. A little surface wetting on round bales may be tolerable if the hay dries quickly, but hay with visible mold, a musty smell, or a soft discolored core should not be fed. If wet hay dries completely and shows no mold, it can sometimes still be used, but the feed value will be lower.
What are the benefits of using slow-feed hay nets?
Slow-feed hay nets slow down eating, so a horse spends more time chewing and makes more saliva to help buffer stomach acid. They also cut waste, keep hay off the ground, and reduce the dust and mold spores a horse inhales while eating. For stalled horses without much pasture time, they are one of the most practical tools you can use.
What NSC level should I target for a horse with Cushing’s or EMS?
Aim for under 10% NSC in the total diet — feed and hay combined — for horses with confirmed insulin dysregulation or a history of laminitis. For PPID horses without active insulin dysregulation, 10–15% NSC can sometimes work with veterinary guidance. Spring pasture and spring-cut grass hay often run higher, which is why testing every new lot matters so much for metabolic horses. Soaking hay for 30–60 minutes can reduce NSC by 20–30% as a short-term measure.
What is the difference between grass hay and alfalfa for horses?
Grass hay such as timothy, orchard, and bermuda is higher in fiber and lower in protein and calcium than alfalfa, so it suits most horses at maintenance or light work and is the safer default for easy keepers and metabolic horses. Alfalfa usually runs 15–20% protein and is much higher in calcium, which makes it useful for performance horses, broodmares, growing horses, and underweight horses that need more calories and protein. If alfalfa is the only forage, the calcium and phosphorus balance still needs attention.
How do I feed hay to horses outside in a group?
Put out more hay piles than there are horses — if you have four horses, set out five piles and space them at least 15 feet apart. That makes it harder for the dominant horse to guard every pile. On sandy or gravelly ground, use hay nets or feeders to keep hay off the dirt and reduce sand ingestion, which can build up in the colon and lead to impaction colic. On clean grass, ground feeding is fine and gives horses a more natural grazing posture.
- Forage comes first. Horses need continuous hay or grazing to keep the gut working properly.
- Feed by body weight. Start with 1.5–2% of body weight in hay daily, then adjust for condition and workload.
- Test hay when the horse’s health depends on it. That matters most for horses with EMS, PPID, or a laminitis history.
- Match the hay to the horse. Grass hay suits most horses; alfalfa fits horses that need more protein and calories.
- Do not leave long forage gaps. Feed often, or use free-choice and slow feeders when practical.
Related feeding guides: do horses need grain | feeding horses with Cushing’s disease | best hay for horses by type | hay types and nutritional comparison
About Miles Henry
Racehorse Owner & Author | 30+ Years in Thoroughbred Racing
Miles Henry (legal name: William Bradley) is a professional horseman based in Folsom, Louisiana. He holds Louisiana Racing License #67012 and has spent over three decades managing Thoroughbreds at premier tracks including Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs.
Expertise & Hands-On Experience: Beyond the track, Miles has decades of experience in specialized equine care, covering everything from hoof health and nutrition to training protocols for Quarter Horses, Friesians, and Paints. Every guide on Horse Racing Sense is rooted in this “boots-on-the-ground” perspective.
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