Last updated: September 22, 2026
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If your horse is rubbing the inside of his hind fetlocks, leaving small cuts or scabs, or you keep hearing a clicking sound behind during work, you’re probably wondering whether hind fetlock boots are the right solution. The key question isn’t whether other horses wear them – it’s whether your horse is actually interfering behind and where that contact is happening.
Hind fetlock boots protect the inside of the hind fetlock when one hind leg brushes or strikes the other during movement. They’re most common in jumping and fast work, but they can help any horse that repeatedly marks that area. The right pair can prevent avoidable rubs and cuts, but only when it fits correctly and covers the spot the horse is actually striking.
In this guide, I explain what hind fetlock boots protect, how they differ from brushing boots and front jumping boots, the signs your horse may need them, how to choose the right fit, and how to put them on without creating new rubbing problems.
Table of Contents
What Hind Fetlock Boots Protect
The fetlock is the joint between the cannon bone and the pastern, supported by the suspensory apparatus and other soft tissues. On the hind legs, the inside of that joint is a common contact point when a horse interferes – meaning one hind hoof or lower leg catches the other as the legs swing through.
A hind fetlock boot places a padded protective cup over that vulnerable area. It can prevent rubs, cuts, and bruising from repeated contact, but it won’t correct the reason the horse is interfering. If the problem is new, worsening, or paired with heat, swelling, uneven shoe wear, or lameness, involve your farrier or veterinarian rather than simply adding more protection.
Miles’s Take: I had a young Quarter Horse filly that began leaving rub marks and occasional blood on the inside of her hind fetlocks during her first serious workouts. She wasn’t showing obvious lameness, but she was built wide behind, and when she accelerated, her hind legs tracked close enough together that she was striking herself. Properly fitted hind fetlock boots stopped the marks almost immediately.
That filly reminded me that interference isn’t always something you can train or shoe away. Sometimes a horse’s build and way of going make a practical piece of protection the sensible answer. I still watched her legs closely, kept the boots clean, and made sure they weren’t creating their own rubbing problem.
Hind Fetlock Boots vs Brushing Boots
The mistake I see most often is buying a boot before figuring out what problem you’re trying to solve. Hind fetlock boots, brushing boots, and turnout boots all sit somewhere around the lower hind leg, but they’re built for different jobs.
| Boot type | Coverage | Best use | What to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hind fetlock boot | Focused protection around the hind fetlock, with the protective cup positioned over the inside of the joint | Jumping, fast work, and horses that strike the inside of the hind fetlock | Lightweight and purpose-built for interference protection in that area |
| Brushing or exercise boot | Broader coverage around the cannon bone and fetlock | Flatwork, general schooling, trail riding, and horses that make contact higher up the lower leg | May offer more coverage, but may also hold more heat and collect more dirt |
| Turnout boot | Varies by design; made for longer wear than a short schooling session | Horses with a confirmed turnout interference issue | Use only a turnout-specific design, check it often for rubbing or moisture, and don’t use it as a substitute for finding the cause of new interference |
For a horse that only catches the inside of the hind fetlock, a simple hind fetlock boot is usually the cleanest solution. If the horse interferes higher up the cannon bone or needs broader protection during ordinary schooling, a brushing boot may make more sense. The right choice depends on where you see contact – not on which boot happens to be most popular in the barn.
Hot-weather note: In Louisiana, I pay close attention to how much heat a boot holds during summer work. Neoprene is affordable, easy to clean, and works well for many short sessions, but it can retain heat and sweat. For longer or harder work, I prefer a lighter, breathable design when it still gives the horse the protection he needs.
Check the legs, clean the lining, and don’t put a wet, grit-filled boot back on for the next ride. Boots can protect against a strike, but they can also create a rubbing or heat problem when they fit poorly or stay on too long.
Signs Your Horse May Interfere Behind
Not every horse needs hind fetlock boots. Many horses stay clean behind through ordinary work, and a boot shouldn’t be automatic just because other horses in the barn wear one. Watch your horse after work and look for a repeatable pattern: rubbed hair, scuffs, cuts, or fresh marks on the inside of the hind fetlock.
Signs your horse may need hind fetlock protection:
- Hair worn, rubbed, or missing on the inside surface of one or both hind fetlock joints
- Small cuts, scabs, or swelling on the inside surface of the hind fetlock
- You repeatedly hear a clicking or ticking sound during movement and can confirm that the hind legs are making contact
- Your farrier has noted shoe wear patterns on the inside of the hind shoes consistent with interference
- Your trainer or vet has observed the horse moving wide behind or with a hind leg gait irregularity
A straight-line trot on a firm, level surface is a useful first look, especially when you watch from directly behind. But it isn’t the final word. Some horses only interfere when they’re tired, carrying themselves differently under saddle, turning, jumping, galloping, or working on particular footing. If you’re unsure, ask an experienced trainer, farrier, or veterinarian to watch the horse move and help identify where the contact is happening.
Jumping adds speed, collection, takeoff, landing, and fatigue, so it’s worth checking the hind fetlocks after every schooling session – even when the horse looks clean at a hand trot. If you see repeated marks or hear consistent interference, choose a properly fitted hind boot and keep monitoring whether it solves the actual contact point.
Choosing the Right Fit
Start with the manufacturer’s size chart, not a generic small-medium-large chart. Hind fetlock boots vary more than many riders expect: shell depth, strap length, cup shape, and the location of the protective strike pad all change from one brand to another. Sizing charts are a starting point, but weight alone doesn’t tell the whole story – a fine-boned Thoroughbred and a heavier Quarter Horse can weigh close to the same but need very different fits.
The correct boot covers the inside of the hind fetlock without sitting down on the pastern or reaching so high that it rubs the cannon bone. It should lie flat against a clean, dry leg, close securely without pinching, and stay in place when the horse walks and trots. If you’re between sizes, compare the actual boot against the horse’s leg and test it before committing to a long ride or hard school.
Once the boot is on your horse, test the fit rather than relying on the label alone. You shouldn’t see gaps, loose edges, or a strap pulling hard across the leg. I use the one-finger check as a quick barn test: the boot should be snug enough to stay put but not cinched down so tightly that it leaves deep marks or restricts normal movement. After the first short session, take the boots off and inspect the leg and the lining for heat, sweat, rubs, grit, or signs the boot moved.
Miles’s Take: I’ve also seen the opposite problem – a horse wearing a boot that was technically the right size but tightened too much. The horse came back with rub marks because the boot couldn’t move naturally with the fetlock. Fit isn’t just about the right size on the label; it’s about how the boot actually behaves once the horse is moving.
How to Put On Hind Fetlock Boots
Hind fetlock boots are among the simpler leg boots to apply, but the steps matter. A boot applied incorrectly – wrong orientation, straps in the wrong direction, or grit trapped underneath – can cause the kind of skin abrasion you were trying to prevent. Follow this sequence every time.
Step 1 – Secure the horse
Work with the horse in a calm, safe place. Have a competent person hold the horse, cross-tie only if the horse is accustomed to it and the area is safe, or use the normal handling setup that keeps both of you comfortable. With a young horse, let him see and feel the boot before you fasten it. A quiet introduction prevents a lot of needless fussing around the hind legs.
Step 2 – Brush and inspect the leg
Brush the hind cannon bone and fetlock area clean before every application. Any dirt, sand, or grit trapped between the boot and the skin becomes an abrasive that works deeper into the skin with each stride. Also wipe the inside of the boot shell clean. A boot that dried with arena footing inside it from the previous session will cause skin damage immediately.
Step 3 – Position and check orientation
Open the boot and check its orientation before you put it on. The shaped protective cup belongs over the inside of the hind fetlock, and the closures should fasten on the outside of the leg. Follow the brand’s directions because shells and strap layouts differ. Once the boot is positioned, smooth the hair underneath and make sure no edge is folded or pressing into the pastern.
Step 4 – Fasten straps securely
Fasten the straps securely, following the order recommended by the manufacturer. The boot should sit flat without rotating, but it shouldn’t be pulled tight enough to leave deep strap marks or make the horse uncomfortable. If the boot has more than one closure, tighten them evenly so the shell stays centered over the inside of the fetlock.
Step 5 – Do the trot test
Walk and trot the horse briefly before real work. Watch from behind if possible and make sure neither boot shifts, twists, drops onto the pastern, or rides up. After the session, remove the boots promptly and check both legs for heat, swelling, rubs, or tenderness. If a horse has persistent heat, swelling, pain, or lameness, stop relying on equipment as the answer and have the leg evaluated.
This page may contain affiliate links. If you buy through one, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only include products that fit the use case discussed here.
HORZE Chicago Fetlock Rear Boots
Best for: riders who want a simple rear fetlock boot for short schooling sessions or jumping, provided the shape matches the horse’s hind fetlock and the boot stays centered at the trot. Check the current sizing information and compare the shell shape with your horse’s actual strike zone before ordering.
Check Price & AvailabilityHind Fetlock Boots vs Front Jumping Boots
Riders often buy front and hind jumping boots as a set, but they protect different areas. A hind fetlock boot protects the inside of the hind fetlock when the hind legs interfere. A front jumping boot, often called an open-front or tendon boot, protects the back and sides of the front lower leg from a strike by a hind hoof during jumping.
| Boot | Usually worn on | Primary strike risk | What it doesn’t do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hind fetlock boot | Hind legs | Interference on the inside of the hind fetlock | It doesn’t correct the horse’s way of going or provide meaningful limb support |
| Front jumping boot | Front legs | A hind hoof striking the back or side of the front lower leg during jumping | It doesn’t prevent tendon strain caused by speed, footing, fatigue, or overwork |
Some horses need both, some need one type, and some don’t need either for a particular job. Choose the least amount of protection that safely addresses the horse’s actual risk, then keep the boots clean, properly fitted, and off the legs once the work is finished. For a broader look at leg protection options – brushing boots, bell boots, medicine boots, shipping boots, and turnout protection – see my complete guide to horse leg boots.
A Mistake I See Owners Make
The biggest mistake isn’t choosing the wrong brand. It’s putting boots on a horse without first figuring out why the horse needs them. A boot can protect a leg, but it won’t correct poor trimming, soreness, or a movement issue. If a horse suddenly starts interfering after months of moving clean, that’s worth a conversation with your farrier or vet before you reach for a bigger, heavier boot.
FAQs: Hind Fetlock Boots for Horses
What are hind fetlock boots used for?
Hind fetlock boots protect the inside of the hind fetlock joint from strike and interference marks – when one hind leg swings through and catches the inside of the other. They’re most commonly used in show jumping, paired with front jumping boots, but are also appropriate for any horse that shows evidence of hind leg interference regardless of discipline.
Where do hind fetlock boots go?
On the hind legs. Hind fetlock boots are sized and shaped for hind leg anatomy and protect the inside of the hind fetlock from interference between the hind legs. Front leg protection in jumping is handled by a different boot – a front jumping or tendon boot – designed for a different strike pattern.
What is the difference between hind fetlock boots and front jumping boots?
Hind fetlock boots go on the hind legs and protect the inside of the fetlock from interference between the hind legs. Front jumping boots go on the front legs and protect the back and sides of the lower leg from a hind hoof strike during landing. They are shaped differently because they protect different parts of the leg. Some jumping horses wear both, while others need only one type – or neither – depending on where they actually make contact.
Can horses wear hind fetlock boots for turnout?
Standard hind fetlock boots are usually intended for riding, schooling, or competition – not routine turnout. If your horse interferes in the field, first confirm where and when the contact is occurring. Then consider a turnout-specific boot that’s designed to stay in place during longer wear, and check it frequently for rubbing, moisture, shifting, or dirt buildup. If the horse has swelling, cuts, or new lameness, ask your veterinarian or farrier to help identify the underlying cause instead of treating turnout boots as the complete answer.
How should a hind fetlock boot fit?
A hind fetlock boot should lie flat against a clean, dry leg, cover the inside of the fetlock where the horse makes contact, and stay centered through walking and trotting. It shouldn’t rotate, gap, pinch, drop onto the pastern, or leave deep strap marks. Start with the brand’s fitting instructions, then inspect the horse’s legs after the first short session for heat, rubs, swelling, or any sign the boot shifted.
What should I look for in a hind fetlock boot?
Look for a smooth, cleanable lining; a protective cup that actually covers the horse’s strike zone rather than a generic shape; secure closures that won’t loosen during work; a shape that stays centered rather than rotating; breathable material for hot climates or long sessions; and rule compliance if you’re competing. Match these to your horse’s specific interference pattern rather than buying the most popular option in the tack shop.
Key Takeaways: Hind Fetlock Boots for Horses
- Hind fetlock boots protect the inside of the hind fetlock from interference between the hind legs – not from landing impact or front leg strikes
- Not every horse needs them – look for repeated rubs, cuts, scuffs, or confirmed hind-leg contact before buying
- Manufacturer sizing beats generic weight charts – shell shape and strap layout vary too much between brands to trust a small/medium/large table alone
- Fit is everything – the boot should stay centered at the trot, and a session-one check for heat or rubbing tells you if it’s working
- Front and hind jumping boots solve different problems – some horses need both, some need one, and some need neither depending on where they actually make contact
About Miles Henry
Racehorse Owner & Author | 30+ Years in Thoroughbred Racing
Miles Henry (legal name: William Bradley) is a professional horseman based in Folsom, Louisiana. He holds Louisiana Racing License #67012 and has spent over three decades managing Thoroughbreds at premier tracks including Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs.
Expertise & Hands-On Experience: Beyond the track, Miles has decades of experience in specialized equine care, covering everything from hoof health and nutrition to training protocols for Quarter Horses, Friesians, and Paints. Every guide on Horse Racing Sense is rooted in this “boots-on-the-ground” perspective.
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