Last updated: October 13, 2026
Any links on this page that lead to products on Amazon are affiliate links and I earn a commission if you make a purchase. Thanks in advance – I really appreciate it!
Soaking boots for horses solve a simple problem: keeping warm water or medication around a sore hoof while your horse stands still. For example, if your vet recommends soaking your horse’s foot to treat and he won’t keep his foot in a bucket, a soaking boot can make the treatment much easier.
Below are the boots worth considering, how to pick the right one, what to put in it, and when a bucket, a poultice, or a call to the vet makes more sense.
Table of Contents
Best Soaking Boots for Horses Compared
Your main choice is between a waterproof rubber boot, a fabric soaking bag, and a hoof sock for holding a dressing. Specs and availability change, so check the current listing before you buy.
| Boot | Type | Best for | What to check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Easyboot Ultimate Remedy | Tall, foldable rubber soaking boot | Full hoof and lower-leg soaking or icing | Size by hoof width; meant to fit loosely, so size up if between sizes |
| yeezo Hoof Soaking Boot | Tall fabric soaking bag with straps | An affordable, washable soaking bag | Fit around the leg and how the straps hold |
| Hoof Wraps Soaker | Ballistic nylon soaking boot with silicone lining | Fidgety horses that won’t stand in a bucket | Fits hooves up to about 6 inches; shorter height can splash |
| Tubbease Hoof Sock | Breathable, rubber-dipped hoof sock | Holding a dressing, poultice, or medication in place | Size by maximum internal diameter; short-term use only, with daily checks |
Easyboot Ultimate Remedy
EasyCare’s Easyboot Ultimate Remedy is the best choice here if you want enough height for a full hoof and lower-leg soak. At full height, it reaches about 5 to 6 inches above the knee on most horses, and you can fold it down when you need less coverage. The flexible material and natural rubber overlays make it easier to pull on, while the rubber outsole holds up better underfoot than a fabric soaking bag.
It’s a good pick for repeated soaking or icing, especially if your horse tends to splash or you want coverage above the hoof. Measure the hoof width and check EasyCare’s size chart before ordering. Unlike riding hoof boots, this one is meant to fit loosely so liquid can move around the foot—if you’re between sizes, EasyCare suggests sizing up.
yeezo Hoof Soaking Boot
The yeezo is the budget pick if you need an occasional soak rather than a heavy-duty boot. It’s a tall fabric soaking bag with an EVA pad in the bottom, a top strap, and elastic bands that help hold it around the leg. I used one when my horse needed a medicated soak and kept trying to rub the boot off; it stayed in place well enough to finish the soak.
It’s washable, reusable, and folds flat for tack-room storage. The tradeoff is durability: a fabric bag won’t hold up as well as a rubber boot if your horse paws, steps on it, or wears it often. Check the current listing for sizing and confirm it suits your horse’s hoof before ordering.
Hoof Wraps Soaker
The Hoof Wraps Soaker is a good pick for a fidgety horse that won’t keep his foot in a bucket. It’s made from ballistic nylon with a silicone-lined interior, and three fastening points help it stay put while your horse stands. It’s lightweight, collapsible, and comes with two EVA foam pads plus an extra strap.
It fits most hooves up to about 6 inches in diameter and can be used for soaking or icing. The main tradeoff is height: because it’s shorter than a tall soaking bag, solution can splash out if your horse moves around a lot. Measure his hoof and check the fit before you buy.
Tubbease Hoof Sock
The Tubbease Hoof Sock isn’t a tall soaking bag. It’s a breathable, rubber-dipped sock that holds a dressing, poultice, or medication against the hoof while keeping dirt out. You can also add a small amount of soaking solution, but it’s better suited to protecting a treated foot than holding a large volume of water.
Measure the widest part of the hoof sole before ordering, because Tubbease sizes by maximum internal diameter rather than hoof length. The maker says it’s for short-term treatment—about five to seven days—with daily checks. It can be used over shoes, but don’t leave it on a loose horse or use it for turnout.
Which Soaking Boot Should You Buy?
- For tall soaking or icing coverage: The Easyboot Ultimate Remedy, especially if your horse splashes or you want coverage above the hoof.
- For an occasional soak on a budget: The yeezo, for a horse that’ll stand reasonably still.
- For a fidgety horse that won’t keep his foot in a bucket: The Hoof Wraps Soaker, as long as his hoof is within the size range and you don’t need tall coverage.
- For holding a poultice or dressing: The Tubbease Hoof Sock, rather than a tall boot full of water.
How to Choose a Soaking Boot
- Hoof size: Measure the width of the hoof and check the maker’s size chart. A boot that’s too small is a fight to get on, and one that’s far too big can slip off.
- A tough sole: The bottom takes all the wear, especially if your horse paws or shifts his weight. A rubber or reinforced base lasts longer than thin vinyl or fabric.
- Height: Choose taller coverage for full soaks, and a hoof sock when your main goal is holding a dressing or poultice.
- Closures: Straps, ties, or Velcro should hold the boot snug without rubbing or cutting into the leg.
- Shoes: Shoes and nail heads are hard on soaking boots, and some makers don’t recommend their boots for shod horses at all.
How to Use a Soaking Boot
- Pick a safe spot. Soak on a level, nonslip surface like rubber mats rather than rough concrete, and have someone hold your horse or tie him where he’s used to standing.
- Clean the foot. Pick out the hoof and rinse off mud so you’re not soaking dirt into an open abscess tract. Don’t dig at an abscess or a puncture yourself, and if a nail or other object is stuck in the hoof, leave it in. Dr. Fallon warns that if it’s removed before the vet can inspect and X-ray it, there’s no way to tell how deep it went.
- Let him get used to the boot. Put the empty boot on first and let him stand in it before you add any liquid.
- Add the solution. Pour in very warm water, not hot enough to scald, and your Epsom salts or other solution. Check the temperature on your own wrist first.
- Fasten it and stay close. Secure the straps snugly and keep an eye on him. Most soaking boots aren’t made to be left on a loose horse.
- Soak for the time your vet recommends. For an abscess, Dr. Lea Riddell suggests about 20 minutes once a day, and Dr. Luke Fallon of Hagyard suggests 15 to 30 minutes.
- Dry and protect the foot. Take the boot off, dry the foot, and apply whatever poultice or bandage your vet wants, then rinse the boot, including the straps and Velcro, and hang it to dry so it’s ready for the next soak.
What to Put in a Soaking Boot
When your vet recommends soaking an abscess, warm water with Epsom salts is a common choice, though your vet may want a different solution or a poultice instead. Dr. Fallon’s go-to mix is warm water, Betadine, and Epsom salts, and after soaking he packs the hoof with a poultice, ichthammol, or an osmotic paste. Ichthammol is a drawing ointment, so it goes on the foot after the soak, not into the water.
For thrush or white line problems, commercial hoof soaks such as CleanTrax are made for use in a soaking boot. Follow the product label for mixing and soaking time, since those directions vary.
Laminitis is a different story. A warm soak isn’t the treatment for it. Vets often use cold therapy instead, and researchers have found that cooling the foot can reduce pain and inflammation and lower the metabolic demand in the hoof. Some soaking boots can hold ice water, but laminitis is an emergency, so call your vet before you treat it yourself.
Can You Soak a Hoof Too Much?
Yes. Veterinarian and farrier Dr. Stephen O’Grady’s main reason to soak is to soften a hard hoof so an abscess is easier to find and drain. But he also warns that soaking too much can soften the hoof wall until it flakes and separates, widen the white line, and let the sole drop closer to the ground. He also questions whether soaking really draws out infection. If a soak is part of your vet’s plan, do it for the recommended time, then dry the foot and protect it rather than leaving it standing in water.
Soaking doesn’t replace getting the abscess opened, either. Once it’s drained, a good hoof care routine helps keep the foot healthy while it heals.
No Soaking Boot? What to Use Instead
A bucket or rubber tub still works if your horse will stand in it. A medicated poultice is another option. Dr. O’Grady points out that it keeps warm, moist contact with the foot without the damage of constant soaking, and Dr. Riddell suggests one when soaking isn’t practical, like in winter. Hold it on with a bandage and a duct tape boot to keep out dirt and mud.
We’ve also made our own hoof packs from disposable diapers and dog training pads. Put the medicated pad or poultice against the sole, cover it with the diaper or pad, and secure it with vet wrap and duct tape. Keep it secure without constricting the leg, and don’t take it above the coronary band. If you’ve never wrapped a hoof, ask your vet or farrier to show you. Change the pack daily, or as your vet directs, so you can check the foot.
What Is a Horse Soaking Boot?
A soaking boot is a waterproof boot or bag that slips over the hoof and holds water or medication around the foot while your horse stands. It’s handy when a sore horse won’t keep his foot in a bucket, and some boots, including the Easyboot Remedy and Easy Soaker below, also work for icing. Unlike a riding hoof boot, most soaking boots aren’t made for walking or turnout, so stay with your horse while he’s wearing one.
When Does a Horse Need a Soaking Boot?
A soaking boot is most useful when your vet or farrier wants repeated soaks and your horse won’t stand in a bucket. It’s most often used for hoof abscesses, and sometimes for sole bruises, thrush, white line problems, or holding a medicated dressing in place.
You don’t need one for routine hoof care, and soaking isn’t the right call for every sore foot. If your horse is suddenly very lame or won’t bear weight, don’t assume it’s an abscess. Dr. Riddell advises calling your vet first, since severe lameness could signal a fracture or another serious injury.
About Miles Henry
Racehorse Owner & Author | 30+ Years in Thoroughbred Racing
Miles Henry (legal name: William Bradley) is a professional horseman based in Folsom, Louisiana. He holds Louisiana Racing License #67012 and has spent over three decades managing Thoroughbreds at premier tracks including Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs.
Expertise & Hands-On Experience: Beyond the track, Miles has decades of experience in specialized equine care, covering everything from hoof health and nutrition to training protocols for Quarter Horses, Friesians, and Paints. Every guide on Horse Racing Sense is rooted in this “boots-on-the-ground” perspective.
30 of their last 90 starts
Equibase Profile.
Connect with Miles: