Last updated: May 26, 2026
What do horses eat? The short answer is mostly forage — hay and grass. Get the balance wrong, and problems show up fast: weight loss, colic, laminitis. As a licensed Louisiana racehorse owner with 30 years of managing Thoroughbred feed programs, I have seen the consequences of overfeeding, underfeeding, and feeding in the wrong order. This guide covers the full picture.
Quick Answer: Horses eat primarily forage — hay and grass — which should make up at least 1.5–2% of their body weight daily. A 1,100-pound horse needs roughly 16–22 pounds of forage per day. Grain and concentrates are added for horses in heavy work or with higher energy needs. Fresh water (8–12 gallons daily, more in heat or heavy work) is non-negotiable. What a horse eats changes significantly based on workload, age, body condition, and season.
About this guide: Educational only — consult your veterinarian before major dietary changes, especially for horses with metabolic conditions or laminitis risk.
Table of Contents
What Do Horses Eat? The Simple Breakdown
Horses eat primarily forage — grass and hay — which should make up at least 1.5–2% of their body weight daily, according to AAEP nutrition guidelines. Grain and supplements are added only when needed for energy, growth, or specific health conditions. For most pleasure horses, quality hay, fresh water, and free-choice salt is a complete diet.
Grass is the most natural food source — what horses evolved to eat, available through pasture turnout. Hay is dried grass or legumes, the foundation of most diets year-round especially when pasture is limited. Grain and concentrates add energy for horses in hard work, though many pleasure horses need none at all. Salt is essential for all horses; other supplements fill specific gaps and most horses on good hay need very little. Fresh water is the single most critical nutrient — a horse without adequate water is a horse at risk for colic. Each of these is covered in depth below, including how much horses need, which types to choose, and how feeding changes with workload and age.
Horse diet at a glance:
- Forage (hay + grass): 80–100% of the diet by volume — 1.5–2.5% of body weight daily
- Grain / concentrates: 0–20% — only for horses in moderate to hard work
- Water: 8–20+ gallons daily depending on workload and temperature
- Salt: Free-choice loose salt or block — all horses, every day
- Supplements: Only to fill documented gaps — most horses on good hay need very few
I have managed feed programs for active Thoroughbreds in full race training and for the Quarter Horses and pleasure horses at my Folsom facility. Feeding a racehorse and feeding a backyard pleasure horse are not the same job — the biology is identical, but the quantities, timing, and composition are very different. This guide covers what horses eat at every level, why the digestive system shapes every feeding decision, and what the most common mistakes look like.
How a Horse’s Digestive System Shapes What It Eats
Everything about how horses should be fed follows directly from how their digestive system works. Horses are hindgut fermenters — meaning most of their fiber digestion happens in the cecum and large colon, not the stomach. This creates two important constraints every feeding decision has to respect. For a full explanation of equine digestive anatomy, see the horse digestion guide.
The horse’s stomach holds roughly 2–4 gallons — small for a 1,100-pound animal — and empties quickly. Large infrequent grain meals create acid pooling and increase ulcer risk. Horses are designed to eat small amounts continuously, not two large meals a day.
Second, the hindgut fermentation process depends on a stable microbial population. Sudden dietary changes — switching hay types abruptly, dramatically increasing grain, or giving access to lush spring pasture overnight — disrupt that microbial balance and can trigger colic or laminitis.
Miles’s Take — Why feeding order matters: I always feed hay before grain, and I have done it that way for 30 years. When hay goes in first, the horse has something to chew and digest before the grain hits — saliva production goes up, stomach acid gets buffered, and the grain passes through more slowly. When grain goes in first to a hungry horse, it hits an empty stomach and moves through fast. Over time, feeding grain first on an empty stomach contributes significantly to ulcer risk over time. For more on recognizing and managing this problem, see the guide on horse ulcers. It is a small habit that makes a real difference.
Hay — The Foundation of Every Horse’s Diet
Hay is what horses eat more than anything else, and choosing the right type matters. The two broad categories are grass hay and legume hay, and most horses do best on a combination or on grass hay alone.
| Hay Type | Protein % | Energy | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Timothy | 8–11% | Moderate | Pleasure horses, maintenance | Widely available; consistent quality; low sugar |
| Orchard grass | 10–12% | Moderate–high | All-around; horses that need more energy | Palatable; horses tend to prefer it over Timothy |
| Bermudagrass | 8–10% | Moderate | Southern US horses; maintenance | Common in Louisiana; limit lush spring growth for metabolic horses |
| Alfalfa | 15–22% | High | Hard-working horses, young horses, underweight horses | Rich — use mixed or as supplement to grass hay, not sole diet for most horses |
| Mixed hay (grass + legume) | 10–14% | Moderate–high | Most horses | Good balance; reduces risk of overfeeding protein from pure alfalfa |
| Coastal Bermuda | 7–9% | Low–moderate | Easy keepers; metabolic risk horses | Lower protein and energy than alfalfa; common in the Southeast |
The general rule is that horses should eat 1.5–2% of their body weight in forage daily. For a 1,100-pound horse, that is 16–22 pounds of hay per day if the horse is not on pasture. Horses in hard work may need 2–2.5% to maintain condition alongside their grain ration. Horses with metabolic conditions or obesity risk may need to be restricted to 1.5% of their current weight while targeting a lower goal weight.
From the barn — how I feed hay to my racehorses vs. my pleasure horses: My Thoroughbreds in training get Timothy or mixed grass-alfalfa hay — high quality, tested, leafy. They get hay first thing in the morning before their grain, and again in the evening. Between those feedings they have access to hay in a slow-feed net to keep something in their stomachs throughout the day. Ulcers are a real concern with hard-working horses, and a constantly empty stomach makes them worse. My pleasure horses at Livingston get Alica Bermuda or Coastal Bermuda — solid hay, nothing fancy — because they do not need the energy density that a horse doing daily track work requires.
Can Horses Eat Only Hay?
Yes — many horses thrive on hay alone with no grain. A horse at maintenance or light work on quality hay is getting most of what it needs. The addition of a plain salt block and fresh water covers the essentials. What hay-only feeding does not cover well: high-calorie demands (horses in heavy work need concentrated energy beyond what hay volume can realistically provide), specific mineral deficiencies in regional hay (a hay test reveals whether a ration balancer is needed), and horses that struggle to maintain weight on forage alone. For the majority of pleasure horses, good hay plus salt plus water is a complete program. One exception: older horses with poor teeth may struggle with long-stem hay and require soaked hay pellets or complete feeds instead.
Always check hay before buying and before feeding. Good hay is green-ish (some browning is normal), smells clean, and has no visible mold or dust. Musty smell, white or black spots, and excessive dust are all reasons to reject a bale. Dusty hay significantly increases respiratory disease risk, and moldy hay can cause colic or toxicosis. For a complete guide to selecting and storing hay, see our articles on how to choose hay for your horse and feeding horses hay.
Grass and Pasture — Benefits and Risks
Fresh pasture is the most natural feed source for horses and, when managed well, one of the healthiest. Obesity is now one of the most common nutritional problems in modern horses — particularly easy keepers on unrestricted pasture — which is why pasture management matters as much as what is in the feed bucket. The problem is that domestic pastures — especially in spring and after rain — do not behave like the varied, sparse natural grazing that shaped equine digestion. Nutrient density and nonstructural carbohydrate content can spike dramatically, which is why pasture management matters as much as what is in the feed bucket. Aim for at least 2–3 acres of good pasture per horse.
The main pasture risk situations to manage: lush spring grass and post-rain flush (highest risk — NSC levels spike, especially in April–June in the Gulf South; limit metabolic and overweight horses to morning turnout when sugar is lower, or use a grazing muzzle); stressed or frost-damaged grass (plants concentrate sugars as a stress response — remove at-risk horses from pasture and feed hay until conditions normalize); overgrazed pasture (increases weed and sand ingestion risk — rotate pastures and supplement with hay when grass coverage is thin); sparse dry pasture in drought (inadequate calories — supplement with hay; in sandy soils, consider psyllium supplementation to reduce sand colic risk); and stable established pasture (low risk for most horses — monitor body condition in easy keepers who may gain weight even on modest grass).
Spring grass and laminitis — the highest-risk period of the year: Laminitis triggered by high nonstructural carbohydrate intake from lush spring grass is one of the most common and most preventable serious conditions in horses. Horses that are overweight, have a history of laminitis, or show signs of insulin resistance (cresty neck, fat pads, easy weight gain) are at the highest risk. In Louisiana, the danger window is roughly April through June for Bermudagrass flush. Limit these horses to a few hours of morning turnout when sugar content is lower, use a grazing muzzle, or keep them on hay until the flush passes. For prevention and management, see the guide to preventing laminitis in horses.
Grain and Concentrates — When and How Much
Grain is an energy supplement for horses whose caloric needs exceed what forage can provide — horses in hard work, young growing horses, mares in late pregnancy or lactation, and horses that struggle to hold weight. Many pleasure horses, easy keepers, and horses on good pasture need none at all. Horses with insulin resistance or equine metabolic syndrome require particularly careful grain management — see your vet for guidance on managing equine metabolic syndrome.
| Grain / Concentrate Type | Energy Density | Best Use | Cautions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oats | Moderate | Working horses; good fiber-to-starch ratio | Whole oats are safe; still limit to what is needed |
| Corn | High | High-energy needs; cold weather feeding | Dense starch — feed cautiously; colic risk if overfed |
| Barley | Moderate–high | Working horses; European racing tradition | Usually fed processed (crimped or rolled) |
| Commercial textured feed | Varies | Convenience; balanced formulation | Read the label — many contain molasses; check NSC for metabolic horses |
| Commercial pelleted feed | Varies | Consistent nutrition; easier chewing for seniors | Choose workload-appropriate formulation |
| Fat supplements (rice bran, flaxseed, oil) | High | Performance horses; weight gain without starch load | Introduce slowly; balance omega-3 to omega-6 ratio |
| Beet pulp | Moderate | Fiber source; weight gain without sugar spike | Soak before feeding; low starch — safe for metabolic horses |
Split daily grain across at least two meals — ideally three for horses in hard training. Never feed a hot, sweated horse a large grain meal immediately after work. Allow the horse to cool first, and offer water in small amounts frequently during the cooling process rather than a full bucket at once.
For horses in race training or high-performance programs, see the guide to feeding racehorses for peak performance and the guide to feeding performance horses for competition and training.
Water — The Most Critical Nutrient
Water is the most critical nutrient in any horse’s diet. Dehydration leads to impaction colic faster than almost any other single factor, and horses can become dangerously dehydrated more quickly than most owners expect — especially in hot weather or during hard work.
Daily water requirements for a 1,100-lb horse: maintenance in mild weather requires 8–10 gallons; light work raises that to 10–12 gallons; hard training or race work needs 12–15+ gallons; Gulf South summers can push requirements to 15–20 gallons or more. Hay-fed horses need roughly 20–30% more water than horses on pasture because dry forage contains almost no moisture. Lactating mares need 15–20+ gallons daily. Always provide free-choice access — never ration water.
Cold water in winter is one of the most underappreciated colic risk factors. Horses significantly reduce their water intake when water temperature drops below about 45°F. In cold climates — or during the occasional Louisiana cold snap — heated water buckets or tank heaters are a straightforward intervention that meaningfully reduces winter impaction colic rates.
Salt supplementation — loose salt free-choice, or a plain salt block — encourages drinking by maintaining thirst drive, and it is one of the simplest and most cost-effective things any horse owner can do. For a full guide to recognizing and responding to colic, see the article on what to do when your horse colics.
Miles’s Take — The Ashton lesson: The night before one of his races, my horse Ashton refused his feed. He was drinking, moving normally, and showed no signs of colic — he just did not want his grain. I reduced his grain and kept his hay available. He ran well the next day. What I learned is that horses often self-regulate in ways that make sense if you pay attention to the whole picture. A horse that stops eating grain but is still drinking and passing manure normally is usually telling you something minor. A horse that stops drinking is always a concern that needs investigation quickly.
Supplements — What’s Worth It and What Isn’t
The horse supplement market is large and aggressive. Most horses on a balanced diet of quality hay and appropriate concentrates do not need additional supplementation beyond a plain salt block. The supplements that are genuinely worth considering for specific situations are a much shorter list than the industry would suggest.
| Supplement Type | Evidence Base | Who Needs It | Skip It If |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain salt (loose or block) | Strong | All horses | Never skip — essential for water intake and electrolyte balance |
| Electrolytes | Strong (heavy work/heat) | Horses in hard work, especially in hot weather | Horses at maintenance with good salt access |
| Joint supplements (MSM, glucosamine) | Moderate | Older horses, horses in heavy joint-loading work | Young, sound horses with no joint history |
| Omega-3 fatty acids (flaxseed, fish oil) | Moderate | Horses on hay-only diets (low in omega-3); inflammatory conditions | Horses on good pasture already getting omega-3 from grass |
| Vitamin E | Strong (deficiency situations) | Horses with no pasture access; horses with neuro or muscle conditions | Horses on good pasture (natural vitamin E source) |
| Probiotics / prebiotics | Emerging | Horses recovering from colic, antibiotic treatment, or dietary change | Healthy horses with stable diet and routine |
| Biotin (hoof) | Moderate | Horses with documented poor hoof quality | Horses with good hooves — will not improve what is not broken |
Miles’s Take — Keep it simple: I have tried a lot of supplements. My view after 30 years: quality forage, appropriate grain for the workload, free-choice salt, and clean water get you 95% of the way there for most horses. Joint supplements make a real difference for older horses in work — I have seen it. Electrolytes in Louisiana summer heat are non-negotiable for hard-working horses. Beyond that, I am skeptical of most of it. The money spent on unnecessary supplements is usually better spent on better hay.
One area where nutrition shows up visibly is coat quality. A dull, rough coat is often one of the first signs of nutritional gaps — particularly omega-3 deficiency or insufficient protein. For more on the link between diet and coat condition, see the horse coat nutrition guide.
What Do Horses Eat Daily? Real Examples by Workload
The easiest way to understand equine feeding is to see what a full day actually looks like. Here are three real daily feeding examples for a 1,100-pound horse at different workload levels — the same horse, three very different jobs:
| Horse Type | Morning | Midday / Turnout | Evening | Daily Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pleasure horse (light work or pasture rest) | 8–10 lbs grass hay | Pasture access or slow-feed hay net | 8–10 lbs grass hay | 18–20 lbs hay, no grain, free-choice salt, water |
| Moderate work horse (arena, trail 4–5x/week) | 8 lbs hay + 2–3 lbs grain | Hay net or pasture | 8 lbs hay + 2–3 lbs grain | 18 lbs hay + 4–6 lbs grain split into 2 meals, salt, water |
| Racehorse in full training | 6 lbs quality hay + 4–5 lbs performance feed | Slow-feed hay net in stall | 6 lbs hay + 4–5 lbs performance feed | 15–18 lbs high-quality hay + 8–12 lbs performance feed across 2–3 meals, electrolytes in heat |
These are starting points — adjust based on individual body condition score, season, and forage quality. A horse that is losing condition on these amounts needs more; one that is gaining weight on them needs less.
How Feeding Changes by Workload
The single most important variable in what a horse eats is what it does. A horse doing nothing needs far less than a horse in hard training. Getting this wrong in either direction — underfeeding a working horse or overfeeding an idle one — creates problems that show up in performance, soundness, and long-term health.
| Workload Level | Examples | Forage | Grain / Concentrate | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maintenance (no work) | Retired, companion, pasture rest | 1.5–2% body weight | None or ration balancer only | Obesity risk — monitor body condition score closely |
| Light work | Trail riding 1–3x/week, light arena work | 1.5–2% body weight | 0–0.5% body weight | Many horses need no grain at this level with good hay |
| Moderate work | Regular riding, showing, lessons 4–5x/week | 1.5–2% body weight | 0.5–1% body weight | Monitor condition; adjust grain up or down as needed |
| Heavy work | Endurance, advanced dressage, jumping training | 2–2.5% body weight | 1–1.5% body weight | Ulcer risk increases — consider buffering agents; never skip hay first |
| Race training | Thoroughbreds in full track training | 1.5–2% (quality hay) | 1–1.5%+ body weight | Multiple small grain meals; ulcer management critical; electrolytes in heat |
Body condition scoring — assessing a horse’s fat cover on a 1–9 scale — is the most practical tool for knowing whether you are feeding the right amount. A score of 4–5 is ideal for most horses. Below 4 means the horse needs more calories. Above 6 means it needs less, or more exercise, or both. Check body condition every two to four weeks and adjust feed before a problem becomes serious. For how feeding changes across seasons, see the seasonal horse feeding strategies guide. For senior horses specifically, the feeding picture changes again after age 20 — see the complete guide to feeding senior horses.
Common Horse Feeding Mistakes
Most feeding-related health problems in horses come from a handful of recurring mistakes. None of them are complicated — but they are common enough that every horse owner should know them by name. Several of these mistakes are among the leading causes of colic; if you are not familiar with how to recognize and respond to colic, see the guide on what to do when your horse colics.
| Mistake | Why It Happens | The Consequence | The Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Feeding too much grain to horses that do not need it | Owners assume working horses equal grain; pleasure horses get the same ration | Obesity, laminitis, metabolic syndrome | Match grain to actual workload; most pleasure horses need none |
| Making sudden diet changes | New hay arrives, pasture access changes overnight, grain switched without transition | Colic, hindgut acidosis, laminitis | All changes over 7–10 days minimum |
| Not providing enough forage | Hay is expensive; owners cut back; grain fed as substitute | Gastric ulcers, colic, wood chewing, weaving | Forage should always be the base — never substitute grain for hay |
| Ignoring winter water intake | Cold water is less appealing; horses reduce drinking; owners do not notice | Impaction colic — a major preventable cause of serious colic | Heated water buckets; free-choice salt; check intake daily |
| Feeding grain before hay | Convenience; grain is easier to portion | Grain hits empty stomach → ulcer risk, hindgut issues | Always hay first, every feeding, no exceptions |
| Unrestricted spring pasture access | Spring arrives, gate opens, horse grazes freely | Laminitis from high-NSC flush grass, especially in metabolic horses | Gradual pasture introduction; limit hours; use grazing muzzle for at-risk horses |
| Feeding by volume instead of weight | Owners count flakes, scoops, or cans rather than weighing | Significant over- or under-feeding — a flake of alfalfa is not a flake of Timothy | Use a scale; feed by weight not volume |
What Horses Should Never Eat and Safe Treats
Horses can safely eat a range of fruits and vegetables as occasional treats. The key word is occasional — treats are not a meaningful nutrition source and should not substitute for forage. The foods to avoid list is shorter but more important, because some common human foods are genuinely dangerous to horses. For a complete breakdown of dangerous plants and foods, see the full guide on what horses should not eat.
| Food | Safe? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Apples | Yes (treats) | Remove core and seeds; cut into pieces for safety |
| Carrots | Yes (treats) | Cut lengthwise to reduce choking risk |
| Bananas | Yes (treats) | Including the peel |
| Watermelon | Yes (treats) | Horses enjoy the rind; high water content |
| Peppermints / sugar cubes | Yes (treats, limited) | Limit for metabolic or insulin-resistant horses |
| Avocado | NO — toxic | All parts — fruit, leaves, bark, pit — are toxic to horses |
| Onions / garlic (large amounts) | NO — toxic | Small supplemental garlic amounts sometimes used; large amounts cause anemia |
| Chocolate / caffeine | NO — toxic + prohibited | Theobromine toxicity; prohibited substances for competing horses |
| Rhubarb | NO — toxic | Contains oxalic acid; causes kidney damage |
| Bread / baked goods (large amounts) | Avoid | Yeast can cause gas and digestive upset; no nutritional value |
| Lawn clippings | NO | Ferment rapidly in the bag; cause colic when eaten in quantity |
| Meat / animal products | NO | Horses are strict herbivores; digestive system cannot process animal protein |
Core Feeding Rules Every Owner Should Know
These rules apply across all horses, all workloads, and all feed types. Consistently following them prevents the most common and most serious feeding-related health problems.
Ten Core Feeding Rules
- Feed hay before grain at every feeding. Never offer grain to a horse that has not had forage recently. Hay buffers stomach acid; grain on an empty stomach accelerates ulcer development.
- Change diets over 7–10 days minimum. This applies to every switch — hay type, grain brand, pasture introduction. The hindgut microbiome needs time to adjust. Abrupt changes cause colic.
- No single grain meal over 4–5 lbs. Large starch loads overwhelm the small intestine, reach the hindgut undigested, and trigger acidosis. Split large daily rations into multiple smaller meals.
- Fresh water available at all times. Never ration water. Horses that drink less than they need are at real risk for impaction colic — particularly in cold weather when water is less palatable.
- Feed by weight, not volume. A flake of alfalfa weighs nearly twice what a flake of Timothy weighs. The only accurate measure is a scale.
- Let a hot horse cool before feeding. After hard work, allow heart rate to normalize before offering grain. Offer water in small amounts frequently during the cooldown — not a full bucket at once.
- Check teeth annually. Horses with sharp points or hooks cannot chew properly, which means they cannot extract nutrition from feed efficiently. Dental problems cause weight loss that feed changes alone will not fix.
- Feed horses individually when possible. In group feeding, dominant horses eat too much and submissive ones eat too little. The result is weight and health imbalances that compound over time.
- Check body condition every 2–4 weeks. Adjust feed before problems develop. A horse losing weight slowly is much easier to correct than one that has become significantly underweight.
- Never feed moldy or dusty hay. Mold causes colic and toxicosis. Dust causes heaves and other respiratory conditions. When in doubt, reject the bale — the cost of bad hay is always higher than the cost of replacing it.
Sources for this guide: National Research Council — Nutrient Requirements of Horses (6th ed.); American Association of Equine Practitioners; University of Minnesota Extension; UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine.
FAQs — What Do Horses Eat?
What do horses eat every day?
Horses eat primarily forage — hay, grass, or both — as the foundation of their daily diet. A 1,100-pound horse needs roughly 16–22 pounds of forage per day (1.5–2% of body weight). Horses in heavy work additionally receive grain or commercial concentrates, typically 5–10 pounds split across multiple meals. All horses need free access to fresh water and a salt source daily. Treats (apples, carrots) are supplemental and not a significant part of the diet.
Do horses need grain?
No — many horses do not need grain. Pleasure horses, easy keepers, and horses on good pasture can maintain excellent condition on quality forage alone, sometimes with a ration balancer to fill nutritional gaps. Grain is an energy supplement for horses whose caloric needs exceed what forage can provide: hard-working horses, growing horses, mares in late pregnancy or lactation, and horses that struggle to hold weight. Overfeeding grain to horses that do not need it is a common cause of obesity, laminitis, and metabolic problems.
How much hay does a horse eat per day?
A horse should eat 1.5–2% of its body weight in forage daily. For a 1,000-pound horse, that is 15–20 pounds of hay per day if not on pasture. For a 1,200-pound horse, it is 18–24 pounds. Horses in hard work may need up to 2.5% to maintain condition alongside their grain. Always feed by weight rather than by the number of flakes — hay density varies significantly between types and cuttings.
How much water does a horse drink per day?
A horse at maintenance in mild weather drinks 8–10 gallons of water per day. In hot weather or during hard work, that rises to 12–20 gallons or more. Lactating mares need 15–20+ gallons. Horses that suddenly reduce water intake are at risk for impaction colic — reduced drinking should always be investigated. Salt supplementation (free-choice loose salt or a plain salt block) encourages adequate water intake by maintaining thirst drive.
What foods are toxic to horses?
Foods that are toxic to horses include avocado (all parts), onions and garlic in large amounts (cause anemia), chocolate and caffeine (theobromine toxicity; also prohibited for competing horses), rhubarb (oxalic acid causes kidney damage), and lawn clippings in quantity (ferment rapidly and cause colic). Horses are strict herbivores and cannot safely process any meat or animal products. When in doubt about a specific food, consult a veterinarian before offering it.
How do I transition my horse to a new feed?
Any change to a horse’s diet should happen over at least 7–10 days. Start by replacing approximately 25% of the current feed with the new feed, then increase to 50% at day 3–4, 75% at day 6–7, and 100% by day 10. This applies to switching hay types, introducing new grain, increasing concentrate amounts, or transitioning from winter hay to spring pasture. The gradual change gives the hindgut’s microbial population time to adapt. Abrupt dietary changes are one of the most common causes of colic in otherwise well-managed horses.
About Miles Henry
Racehorse Owner & Author | 30+ Years in Thoroughbred Racing
Miles Henry (legal name: William Bradley) is a professional horseman based in Folsom, Louisiana. He holds Louisiana Racing License #67012 and has spent over three decades managing Thoroughbreds at premier tracks including Fair Grounds, Delta Downs, and Evangeline Downs.
Expertise & Hands-On Experience: Beyond the track, Miles has decades of experience in specialized equine care, covering everything from hoof health and nutrition to training protocols for Quarter Horses, Friesians, and Paints. Every guide on Horse Racing Sense is rooted in this “boots-on-the-ground” perspective.
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